Five of Queen Elizabeth II’s most iconic outfits – from new royal exhibit
Queen Elizabeth II’s Enduring Style and the New Exhibition
Queen Elizabeth II, a figure of global recognition, cultivated a distinctive sartorial identity throughout her 70-year reign. Her wardrobe, marked by restraint and tradition, became a symbol of continuity and national pride. A recent display at The King’s Gallery in Buckingham Palace explores her fashion legacy, presenting 200 items from her life’s journey to commemorate the centenary of her birth on 10 April. The exhibition underscores how her attire mirrored Britain’s evolving cultural landscape while reinforcing its stability and diplomatic image.
The Harris Tweed Ensemble: A British Icon
One of her most emblematic looks is a Harris tweed jacket paired with a Balmoral Tartan skirt, first worn in the 1950s. Designed by Norman Hartnell, this outfit exemplifies the Queen’s preference for practical yet symbolic attire. Though modest in design, it subtly embodies the values of soft power and national identity, according to royal fashion expert Marian Kwei. The fabrics, she notes, were chosen to celebrate British craftsmanship, with the tartan pattern and restrained tones reinforcing themes of stability and reliability.
“It’s ‘I’m in charge’, without being too loud about it,” Kwei remarks. “If she was chasing fashion trends, we would think she was blown away by every wind.”
The Coronation Dress: A Symbol of Unity
The 1953 Coronation dress, also by Hartnell, stands as a masterpiece of British design. Crafted from Kent silk, it features gold bugle beads, diamantés, and pearls in intricate embroidery. Beyond its aesthetic appeal, the dress carries profound symbolism, incorporating the floral emblems of the UK’s four nations and extending to Commonwealth countries. The Canadian maple leaf and India’s lotus flower are among the motifs that reflect her global role, as highlighted by Kwei. “The gown was pretty much a nod to Britain and the Commonwealth,” she explains.
“Her sartorial choice was really an indication of the kind of Queen we had and how she reigned,” Kwei adds.
The Green Banquet Gown: A Controversial Statement
In 1957, the Queen donned an elaborate sleeveless green gown for a state banquet honoring US President Dwight Eisenhower at the British Embassy in Washington DC. Hartnell’s design, with its fitted waist and full skirt, was a hallmark of her royal wardrobe. While the dress is celebrated for its elegance, its symbolic intent remains debated. De Guitaut notes the “apple crisp green” hue might subtly reference American culture, linking it to New York’s nickname and the iconic “American Pie.” “It says ‘I’m Britain’s sovereign, this is us, but I’m also nodding to you,'” Kwei interprets.
“She was on the world stage for 70 years and it’s quite impressive to have just always made the right choice in terms of clothing,” de Guitaut says.
Legacy in Contemporary Design
The exhibition reveals how her fashion choices influenced modern aesthetics. Curator Caroline de Guitaut highlights the enduring impact of her tartan kilts, noting their revival in Miu Miu’s 2024 Balmoral collection. Elizabeth Holmes, an author and royal fashion commentator, emphasizes the Queen’s early use of clothing to redefine her global image. “She used her attire to establish herself as a glamorous young woman on a male-dominated stage,” Holmes observes. The tailored silhouettes and embroidered details, she adds, accentuated her femininity while projecting authority.