Mission to Andros: Wine, cheese and lemons, the ‘golden’ products shaping the island’s future
Andros: A Mediterranean Island Shaped by Tradition and Innovation
Mission to Andros - Andros holds the distinction of being the second most expansive island within the Cyclades archipelago, trailing only Naxos in terms of size. For generations, this Greek island has maintained a profound connection with the ocean, with its economic foundation built upon the shoulders of seafarers who ventured across distant waters. While these maritime explorers were away, the residents who remained—particularly the women of the community—dedicated themselves to raising livestock and tending to agricultural fields.
The Golden Citrus of Livadia
Among the island's most celebrated agricultural treasures is the Andros lemon, a product that embodies the fertility of the Livadia valley. Historical records indicate that from the seventeenth century through the middle of the twentieth century, substantial volumes of these citrus fruits were shipped across the Mediterranean region, into Central European markets, and even as far as Russia. The island continues to honor this heritage through an annual Lemon Festival held in the town of Andros.
"We celebrate the fragrant lemon of Andros, which is renowned. Many women and local associations come with their own homemade products," Laskaró Stefanou, appointed cultural councillor of the Municipality of Andros, told Euronews.
"The lemon is the gold of Andros. There were years when people lived off lemons; now that is no longer the case. But we want to preserve our tradition, which is why we come every year," said farmer and cook Charikleia Daniolou.
"The lemons of Andros used to be famous. Production was high and they reached as far as the Black Sea. They left from here on boats. Today production is much smaller, but it remains an important product for our area. We make lemonades, spoon sweets and lemon blossom, which is very delicious and unique." says Despina Petta, president of the Mainites cultural association.
Wine Culture Revived
The combination of schist-rich soils, the powerful meltemi winds, and ocean spray creates an exceptional microclimate for viticulture. Modern wineries have recently breathed new life into Andros's vineyards, positioning the island as a destination for wine tourism. The Kourtesis vineyard sits on stone-built terraces called "aimasies" at an elevation of one hundred meters above sea level in the Ypsilo district near the main town. This establishment features a semi-underground winery and provides visitors with guided tours and tasting experiences.
"We produce organic wines and olive oil and our aim is to make the wine of Andros known to the tourists who come here. We organise wine tastings. On the island, traditionally, households make their own wine and tsipouro. Our goal is to become known worldwide and for people to come here to taste our mavrotragano and potamisi wines, produced at a more professional level," shared oenologist Vasso Chaviaraki.
Visitors Find Tranquillity
Troy Porter and his spouse have made Andros their summer retreat from Texas. They visit annually and actively promote the island through social media channels. Their enthusiasm has inspired numerous American friends to consider visiting as well.
"It's very relaxing and peaceful here. It's quiet and people are kind. Two years ago we bought a house. We've been coming to Andros for the past five years. Everyone has positive energy and treats us as if we were part of their family. We love the atmosphere. It's quiet. I think that's the key word: tranquillity," says Troy Porter.
Traditional Cheese Making
In the Korthi region, the Krevasara dairy operates under the guidance of the Asouti family. Since two thousand and nine, this facility has been crafting Volaki, the traditional Andros cheese, alongside ladotyri, krasotyri, petrotí, and bourniá varieties. Nikos Asoutis, having completed his studies at the Dairy School of Ioannina, returned to his homeland to establish this operation. Each day, approximately five hundred kilograms of milk flow through his hands, sourced from his personal herd and five additional local cattle farmers.
"It has a distinctive flavour; it's made purely from cow's milk, pasteurised. Most of it is produced on the island, where the animals roam free. Besides the local market, you can find it in Athens, Thessaloniki and generally across Greece," said cheesemaker Nikos Asoutis.
Island-based businesses encounter various obstacles, including elevated transportation expenses and difficulties securing adequate labor. Assistant cheesemaker Maria Dol, who relocated from Athens several years ago to support Nikos Asoutis, highlighted these ongoing concerns.
"I came a few years ago from Athens, in an effort to help Nikos Asoutis, who needed extra hands. Because this has now become a very big problem. Life in the countryside is very nice, it's lovely to say that we left Athens and came here, but there are many problems. There are no hands, there is no workforce to help any kind of business," says assistant cheesemaker Maria Dol.